Japan’s second-largest city, Osaka’s reputation precedes it: home to straight-talking, downto- earth folk more than fond of a good time; the heartland of Japanese comedy; a street food hub; and a futuristic metropolis that inspired ‘Blade Runner’s dystopian cityscapes (although you don’t need to worry about bumping into replicants here). For centuries a business hub, Osaka’s attractions are the kind that appear when serious money is being made: from Osaka Castle through to Universal Studios, the Expo ’70 Park and the breathtaking ‘garden in the air’ on the Umeda Sky Building. The downtown Shinsekai neighbourhood, including the Tsutenkaku Tower, preserves the nostalgic vibe of Japan’s Showa era, while at the other end of the spectrum Shinsaibashi is a Mecca for upmarket shopping. The canal-side Dotonbori entertainment district, with its blazing neon signs, is a must-visit that really comes alive after dark.
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Family-friendly
Bars & Nightlife
Of the some 100 eateries lining the Shin-Umeda Shokudogai restaurant street, this standingonly kushikatsu (deep-fried skewers) joint is the one you really shouldn’t miss. Pick any of the sticks on the silver trays lined up along the counter, dip your choice in Matsuba’s signature sauce (double-dipping is strictly off limits) and dig in. Prices start from ¥100 per skewer.
Venue name:
Matsuba Sohonten
Opening hours:
Mon-Fri 2pm-10pm, Sat, Sun & hols 11am-10pm
Restaurant/Café
Daifuku is a type of Japanese confection in which azuki bean paste is stuffed inside a soft mochi rice cake, making for an elegantly sweet dessert with a unique, chewy texture. Colourful, organic versions of this dainty delicacy can be had at Mochisho, a shop that also makes tasty black bean mochi.
Venue name:
Mochisho Shizuku Shinmachi
Opening hours:
Shop 10.30am-7pm, café 1pm-5.30pm
Bars & Nightlife
Hidden behind an imposing steel door, Shinka is quite possibly the only submarine-themed bar in Japan and has one of the most memorable toilets of any boozer anywhere. Order the gin tonic and prepare to wait – the resident mix master is a perfectionist who takes his time.
Read moreShopping
Built in 1927 by local merchant Matashiro Shibakawa, this gorgeous edifice has seen tenants ranging from a finishing school to company offices over the years, but now houses a quirky selection of restaurants, cafés, and shops dealing in hats and tableware.
Read moreShopping
Strolling the streets of Kawagoe in kimono is high on many visitors’ to-do lists. Vivian offers kimono rental and hair arrangement for only ¥2,160 (¥3,240 for men), including underwear, ‘geta’ sandals and accessories, and is conveniently located right in the middle of old Kawagoe.
Venue name:
Nijiyura
Opening hours:
11am-7pm, closed Thu
Restaurant/Café
Ask any Osakan for their favourite takoyaki (octopus balls) joint and they’re unlikely to have an answer, because this local delicacy is usually eaten at home. If you can’t secure an invitation to someone’s house, this spacious eatery offers the next best thing – along with views over the Dotonbori canal from the second-floor counter.
Venue name:
Creo-Ru
Opening hours:
11am-12midnight (last orders 11.15pm)
Things to do
Enshrining the deity of learning, Temmangu Shrine is the home of the annual Tenjin Matsuri, held on July 24 and 25 and considered one of Japan’s three greatest festivals. The Tenjin Matsuri is said to mark the start of the summer heat in Osaka, so best dress accordingly.
Venue name:
Osaka Temmangu Shrine
Opening hours:
N/A
Bars & Nightlife
Strolling the streets of Kawagoe in kimono is high on many visitors’ to-do lists. Vivian offers kimono rental and hair arrangement for only ¥2,160 (¥3,240 for men), including underwear, ‘geta’ sandals and accessories, and is conveniently located right in the middle of old Kawagoe.
Venue name:
The Blarney Stone Umeda
Opening hours:
Mon-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri, Sat 5pm-5am; Sun 3.30pm-5am
Bars & Nightlife
Doyama is the biggest gay neighbourhood in Western Japan and offers something for every taste. This gaudily decorated bar boasts a highly diverse clientele and is a great place to start at – there’s no cover charge (except on Saturdays and days before public holidays, which are party nights), and drinks start from around ¥700.
Venue name:
Explosion
Opening hours:
8pm-4am (hours vary on Saturdays and days before holidays due to events), closed Tue (except for event days)
Bars & Nightlife
A favourite hangout for members of the Japan national rugby team, this homely sports bar has a locker room theme and stocks the jerseys of all teams in the Japan Top League. They’ll let you wear the kits too, which makes for some fun photo opportunities.
Venue name:
Sports Bar Maialino
Opening hours:
8pm-5am, closed Sun
Things to do
How about a quick stroll across a 60cm wide viewing platform perched on the rooftop of Japan’s tallest building, a cool 300 metres above the city? Safely strapped to a harness, you’ll have the opportunity to look out over the railing and across all of Osaka with the wind roaring in your ears.
Venue name:
Edge The Harukas at Harukas 300
Opening hours:
Entry in 3 groups: 10am-12noon (sign up by 11.20am), 1pm-5pm (4.20pm) and 6pm-9pm (8.20pm). Hours may change due to weather, crowding and other conditions. Sign-up closes as soon as each group fills up.
Bars & Nightlife
It looks just like your average bar, but MoonShine is actually most renowned for its karaoke – as passers-by are bound to notice, thanks to the somewhat insufficient soundproofing. Leave your embarrassment at the door, grab a seat at the counter, and get ready to sing your heart out.
Venue name:
MoonShine Bar
Contact:
N/A
Opening hours:
Mon-Wed, Sat, Sun 7pm-3am; Thu, Fri 7pm-5am
Restaurant/Café
All animal products, white sugar, artificial additives and genetically modified foods are off the table at Paprika, where you can combine your vegan meal with a glass of natural wine or an organic smoothie. Taiwanese vegetarian cuisine is also available, but requires a reservation in advance.
Venue name:
Paprika Shokudo Vegan
Opening hours:
11.30am-2pm, 5.30pm-10pm; closes irregularly on 4-6 days per month
Things to do
An essential sightseeing spot, the Dotonbori area may be the most touristy part of the city. Still, it perfectly conveys what Osaka is all about: street food, loud but friendly locals, and garish neon signs such as the iconic Glico Running Man.
Venue name:
Dotonbori
Contact:
N/A
Opening hours:
N/A
Bars & Nightlife
The Hub chain always offers a reasonably accurate approximation of a British pub, complete with the usual staples including fish and chips, roast beef and the eminently quaffable Hub Ale. Note that the Kita-Shinchi location is smoke-free (although it has a separate smoking booth).
Venue name:
Hub Kitashinchi
Opening hours:
Mon-Thu, Sat 5pm-12midnight, Fri 5pm-2am, Sun 5pm-11pm
Bars & Nightlife
Not your average gelato shop, Henrietta stays open until 2am on weekdays and 5am on weekends, serving alcohol alongside its signature Italian ice cream – all for diners in search of a sweet end to a long night of meat-grilling at one of the countless yakiniku eateries in the neighbourhood.
Venue name:
Henrietta
Opening hours:
8pm-2am
Things to do
Osakans love the vast lawn right by the entrance to Tennoji Park, where urbanites come to mingle at the cafés, children run around excitedly and dog-owners let their furry friends loose in the designated area. This spot will also host one of the fan zones during the Rugby World Cup.
Venue name:
Tenshiba
Opening hours:
N/A
Bars & Nightlife
The jovial manager at this down-to-earth Irish pub makes sure first-timers feel welcome as soon as they walk through the door. Besides the beer, you can look forward to a plentiful food menu, which ranges from nuts and other light snacks to pizza, burgers and deep-fried bacon and cheese.
Venue name:
Murphys Osaka
Opening hours:
Mon-Thu 5pm-3am, Fri 5pm-5am, Sat 12noon-5am, Sun 12noon-3am
Bars & Nightlife
Passing by Toyo, it’s hard to resist joining the ever-present queue for a seat at this al fresco izakaya, where locals and visitors alike gather to down beers from noon. You collect your own drinks at the counter, while more substantial fare – such as the voluminous three-piece seafood omakase set – is ordered the usual way.
Venue name:
Toyo
Opening hours:
Tue, Wed, Fri 3.30pm-9pm, Sat 2.30pm-8pm, closed Mon, Thu, Sun & hols
Things to do
A veritable cross-section of Osaka culture, this charming alleyway features age-old bars and Japanese restaurants, okonomiyaki (savoury pancake) eateries and kushikatsu (deep-fried skewers) joints side by side. The subject of several novels and old-time hit songs, it offers a taste of the city’s fascinating history.
Venue name:
Hozenji Yokocho
Contact:
N/A
Opening hours:
N/A
Bars & Nightlife
Hidden away beyond the reach of the flashy neon lights illuminating its Shinsaibashi street, the refined Umineko is a tiny, standingonly bar dedicated entirely to Japanese craft beer, including a few house brews. Up to nine varieties are offered at all times and can also be ordered to go.
Venue name:
Stand Umineko
Opening hours:
5pm-11pm
Bars & Nightlife
With a little use of the imagination, you might think you’ve landed on the Emerald Isle: from the coasters on the tables to the posters on the walls, Dublin Bay’s décor is deceptively authentic. This comfy pub’s rooftop seats usually require reservations, but are open to everyone during the Rugby World Cup.
Venue name:
Dublin Bay
Opening hours:
3pm-12midnight
Bars & Nightlife
Grass-fed beef steaks and stew washed down with natural NZ wine, or perhaps some seafood flown in from the South Pacific? New Zealanders will feel right at home at this classy but casual side street restaurant.
Venue name:
Manuka
Opening hours:
Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm (last orders 2pm), 5.30pm-10.30pm (10pm); Sat 11.30am-2.30pm (2pm), 5.30pm-10pm (9pm); closed Sun & hols
Restaurant/Café
This friendly neighbourhood pâtisserie goes the distance with its colourful and incredibly detailed cakes, which look almost too beautiful to eat but taste too perfect not to. There are only a couple tables for two inside, so you’ll want to consider takeaway – perhaps with some house gelato for the road.
Venue name:
Patisserie Ravi,e relier
Opening hours:
11am-8pm, closed Tue, Wed. Often closes irregularly; check the blog on the website for details.
Restaurant/Café
Sourcing beans from countries such as Ethiopia, India and Nepal, this chill little coffee joint is seriously particular about the quality of its brews. The menu also lists chai, lassi and other artisanal drinks, but the coffee is what keeps locals and out-of-towners alike coming back.
Venue name:
Tasogare Coffee Stand
Opening hours:
Mon-Fri 8am-8pm, Sat 12noon-8pm, closed Sun
Bars & Nightlife
Feeling a little homesick? Seek out the Blackstock under the railway tracks near Fukushima Station, treat yourself to some honest pub grub, and wash it all down with a pint of Guinness, a BrewDog Punk IPA or a fresh fruit cocktail.
Venue name:
The Blackstock
Opening hours:
Mon-Fri 5pm-1am (last orders 12.30am), Sat 3pm-1am (12.30am), closed Sun
Bars & Nightlife
Tired of the usual pub scene already? Then seek out the Doghouse Inn and its resident pooch: Henry is a 10-year-old bulldog who loves watermelon and casually mingles with his customers, even seeing returning patrons out on occasion. His human employees serve up six types of beer, including Guinness and Minoh.
Venue name:
The Doghouse Inn
Opening hours:
6pm-12midnight
Restaurant/Café
Sometimes considered a risky treat, fugu (pufferfish) is actually completely safe when prepared by an expert chef – such as the artisans behind the counter at Zuboraya, who serve up this unique delicacy in forms ranging from sashimi to hotpot. The funky 3D sign outside is also worth a look.
Venue name:
Zuboraya
Opening hours:
11am-11pm (last orders 10.30pm)
Shopping
A super-trendy shop run by the Kansai region’s leading design studio, Graf is great for styling up your home with Japan-made furniture, tableware, accessories and ceramics. Its in-store café offers simple lunch sets and tasty pastries made with ingredients sourced directly from trusted farmers.
Venue name:
Graf
Opening hours:
11am-7pm, closed Mon (Tue if Mon is a holiday)
Bars & Nightlife
Four taps and a whopping 300 or so bottled and canned beers from around the world await connoisseurs at this two-storey bar, where you’re welcome to enter the refrigerated storage room and pick out any brew you want. The ground floor is standing-room only, but there’s seating upstairs.
Venue name:
Craft Beer Base
Opening hours:
11am-11pm (last orders 10.30pm); Thursdays 5pm-11pm (10.30pm)
Restaurant/Café
Old-school cafeterias are dime a dozen in Osaka, but few of them combine nostalgia and a youthful edge as effortlessly as Sonoda, where you can fill up on no-frills fare from potato salad and ‘Neapolitan’ spaghetti to ramen and traditional Japanese food for the price of a pint at your average high street pub.
Read moreShopping
Knives, plates, stoves, signboards and even plastic food samples – everything you need to open a restaurant can be procured along this 150-metre shopping street. Its annual festival in early October is a great opportunity to pick up quality wares on the cheap.
Venue name:
Sennichimae Doguyasuji Shopping Street
Opening hours:
Hours vary by store
Art & Culture
Contemporary art from around the world, housed in one of the coolest-looking buildings you’ll ever see – César Pelli’s NMAO is worth the detour even if you don’t have time for all the exhibits.
Venue name:
The National Museum of Art, Osaka
Opening hours:
10am-5pm (last entry 4.30pm); until 8pm Fri, Sat (last entry 7.30pm); until 9pm Fri, Sat in September (last entry 8.30pm); closed Mon (Tue if Mon is a holiday)
Restaurant/Café
Sashimi from ¥280 per plate and other super-fresh seafood dishes are the main attraction at Ura-Temma’s finest fish eatery, but we’d be remiss not to mention the abnormally large tempura sticks, which start from a somewhat unbelievable ¥100.
Venue name:
Tottsuan Temma
Opening hours:
5.30pm-11.30pm
Bars & Nightlife
One of the largest beer bars in Umeda, the Craftman brewpub has six 500-litre tanks in the back, where the resident brew masters are always busy conjuring up new flavour combinations. If beer is your passion, this spot won’t disappoint.
Venue name:
Craftman Umami
Opening hours:
11.30am-11pm
Bars & Nightlife
Wallabies and All Blacks fans will feel right at home at this friendly Aussie- and NZ-themed sports bar, where you can occasionally catch a bit of live music after the match. The house-made pies and excellent beer selection add to the attraction.
Venue name:
Coolabah
Opening hours:
Mon 6pm-1am; Tue-Thu 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-2am; Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-5am; Sat 12noon-5am; Sun 12noon-2am
Bars & Nightlife
Hidden away on the ground floor of the Code hotel is this comfy Aussie pub, which has a nice terrace out front and does a superb espresso martini, for which the espresso is pulled on the spot using beans courtesy of Byron Bay Coffee. It’s an addictive concoction that’s best enjoyed slowly.
Venue name:
The Australian Pub
Opening hours:
Sun, Tue-Thu 5pm-2am; Fri, Sat 5pm-3am; closed Mon
Things to do
A symbol of the city’s illustrious history, Osaka Castle was first built in 1583 by conquering warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi, whose exploits are detailed at the museum inside the keep. The observatory at the top offers excellent views and can be reached by elevator.
Venue name:
Osaka Castle
Opening hours:
9am-5pm (last entry 4.30pm), closed Mon
Restaurant/Café
A local favourite with a Michelin star to its name, this yakitori joint usually requires reservations, but operates on a first-come, first-serve system on Fridays. Try your luck and you just might get to enjoy some of the very best grilled chicken in town.
Venue name:
Ayamuya
Contact:
CALL VENUEOpening hours:
From 5.30pm, open as long as stock lasts; closed Sun & hols
Restaurant/Café
With a door modelled on a vending machine and drinks that look like they were born for Instagram, it’s no wonder Osaka’s trendy ladies have taken a liking to this cool café. Keep an eye out for the seasonal specialities and original merchandise.
Read moreBars & Nightlife
Laying a strong claim to the title of hottest club in Osaka, Giraffe boasts a top-of-the-line sound system and attracts a music-loving crowd every day of the week. While the 2am closing time can feel like a bit of a letdown, at least women get in for free between 8pm and 10pm.
Venue name:
Giraffe Japan
Opening hours:
8am-late
Shopping
‘Osaka’s kitchen’ is always busy, but feels a lot friendlier than your average wholesale market. You’ll want to head over after 8am, when the professionals have already done their shopping and the many superb sushi restaurants start offering mouthwatering breakfast deals. On festival days (two Saturdays per month), visitors are invited to experience the atmosphere of the fish auctions for themselves.
Venue name:
Osaka Kizu Market
Opening hours:
6am-11am (varies by store), closed Sun & hols, some Wednesdays
Bars & Nightlife
Gaze out over the river, the retro Naniwa Bridge and the traffic below while nursing a cold one at this eighth-floor brewpub, where at least some of the taps always hold beer brewed on the premises. Open from 11.30am, One’s also does great pub grub, making it the ideal spot for a wet lunch.
Venue name:
One’s Brewery Pub Kitahama
Opening hours:
Mon-Fri 11.30am-11pm (last orders 10.30pm), Sat, Sun & hols 11.30am-10pm (9.30pm)
Things to do
Unless you’re afraid of heights, the Umeda Sky Building’s round observatory offers one of the most spectacular experiences in Osaka. Seemingly floating in the air 173 metres above ground, it boasts 360-degree views of the city, which looks especially stunning around sunset.
Venue name:
Kuchu Teien Observatory
Opening hours:
9.30am-10.30pm (last entry 10pm). ¥1,500, children aged 4-12 ¥700, under 4 free
Bars & Nightlife
Set in a beautifully renovated traditional townhouse, Eden Tokkyu serves a different lineup of three draft brews every day, plus a rich variety of other alcoholic drinks and tasty nibbles. Note that the highly irregular opening hours can make walk-ins challenging.
Venue name:
Eden Tokkyu
Opening hours:
7pm-12midnight (Sun from 3pm), closed Mon, Tue. Opening hours are irregular, so check Twitter before going: https://twitter.com/eden_tokkyu
Things to do
Simultaneously calling out for victory and devouring all bad mojo with its wide-open mouth, the 12-metre ‘lion’s head’ hall at this smallish shrine is supposed to be one of the most luck-bringing spots in all of Osaka.
Venue name:
Namba Yasaka Shrine
Opening hours:
N/A
Restaurant/Café
The shopping centre connected to Nankai Namba Station has plenty going for it, not least this fifth-floor food hall where you can feast on steak and sushi, buy local fruit and veg, and end your delicious journey with a sip of sake or a pint of craft beer.
Venue name:
Itadakimasu
Opening hours:
11am-11pm (last orders 10.30pm)
Bars & Nightlife
This Brooklyn-themed brewpub with ten taps is run by Minoh Beer, a local craft brewery renowned as one of the best in Japan. Beer Belly is also the home of the mouth-watering Edobori Burger, which features wagyu pâté and house-made bacon.
Venue name:
Beer Belly Tosabori
Opening hours:
Mon-Fri 5pm-12midnight (last orders 11pm), Sat 3pm-11pm (10pm), Sun 3pm-9pm (8pm)
Restaurant/Café
Tsuruhashi has more grill-it-yourself meat eateries than you can shake a stick at, but very few manage to live up to the standard set by Gyuichi. Specialising in brand-name wagyu such as Kobe and Tajima beef, the restaurant is deservedly a local favourite, where you can trust every cut to taste superb.
Venue name:
Gyuichi
Opening hours:
11.30am-11.15pm (last orders 10.45pm)
Restaurant/Café
Okonomiyaki, a savoury pancake-like treat cooked on a hotplate, is for many the ultimate Osaka speciality. Fugetsu in Tsuruhashi has been around for 60 years and is renowned for the Fugetsuyaki, its umami-rich signature dish that comes filled with plenty of cabbage, plus shrimp, squid, pork, beef and more.
Venue name:
Tsuruhashi Fugetsu
Opening hours:
11am-11pm (last orders 10pm)